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© © Ruhpolding Tourismus / Andreas Plenk

Kuagloggn & "Blasbalgdeifi"

date: 24.10.2023
from: Kathrin Thoma-Bregar

It is one of those places that seems to have fallen out of time. A little enchanted, a little mysterious. A place that tells of the past, when the hammer blows of Ruhpolding’s bell smith could be heard far and wide, day in, day out.

“Glockenschmiede gegr. 1646” (Bell smithy founded 1646) is written on a plain wooden sign above the entrance door. Greenery is growing up the corner of the house. In the backlight of the sun, a small rainbow glitters above the water wheel and the summer wind gently sweeps over the forest. For almost four centuries, the bell smithy in Haßlberg has been located at the far end of the Brander Valley, standing stoically, defying all wars and world events.

The last master blacksmith, Fritz Grübl, died in 1960. It is thanks to his daughter Tyrena Ullrich and her husband Martin that the property did not fall into disrepair. Today it is a small museum. Evidence of a craft that is almost forgotten, a laborious and arduous job. You get an idea of this when you enter the hammer mill. It is dark and cool here, even on a bright sunny day. The smithy’s floor had to be kept damp at all times so that sparks falling around could not ignite anything. The monotonous, loud beats of the heavy hammers made it impossible to even understand one’s own words. There was no hearing protection. The men communicated with knocking signs called “hammer language”. Their work was incredibly exhausting. The day often lasted twelve hours. They wore heavy leather aprons and wooden shoes and stood at the red-hot forge, the blacksmith’s hearth, and the booming tail hammers.

© © Ruhpolding Tourismus / Andreas Plenk

To power them, water from the Thoraubach or Glockenbach was diverted into a stream bed and dammed up in a channel. The water supply and therefore the number of hammer blows per minute could be regulated by a slide valve, the “sluice”. The water flowed onto the wheel from above and turned it on. This rotary movement of the water wheel was taken up by the hammer shaft and the hammer was lifted. Due to its own weight, it fell back onto the anvil with enormous force. A large bellows under the roof was used to blow air into the forge and keep the forge fire going. Holes had to be patched in the leather and wood bellows from time to time. For this, the smallest of the apprentices was sent in with a needle, thread and chip of pinewood. The opening was tiny and the boys were afraid because it was said that the devil, the “Blasbalgdeifi”, lived in the bellows. But everyone came out unscathed.

As hard as the work as a blacksmith was, it was well paid. An apprentice earned about ten times as much as a farmhand – if he survived without getting sick. They slept in simple rooms above the grinding shop, which is a just below the smithy. From 1860 onwards, many different tools and straw knives were produced in the Ruhpolding bell smithy, which were purchased by buyers far beyond the Bavarian borders. And “Kuagloggn”, elongated bells like those worn by cows, calves and other grazing livestock on the alpine meadows. For a harmonious herd ringing, in Ruhpolding they mixed the forged “Duschglockn” with their dull, clanging sound and cast bells, the “Speisglockn”, for the upper notes. The smithy on the Haßlberg owes its name to the manufacturing of bells.

© © Ruhpolding Tourismus/Andreas Plenk

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about the author Kathrin Thoma-Bregar